An overabundance of food, foods high in fat and calories, and too many food choices can all lead to the perception of a “land of plenty”. This perception can lead to overconsumption, obesity, hyperactivity, reproductive stimulation, a decline in desire of your bird to interact with you or it’s “flock”, and a decrease in your ability to use food rewards for training and positive behavioral reinforcement. Here are some things to adjust in your bird’s diet…

• Conversion to a pelletized or formulated diet (medium and large parrots): with the bird sharing time with you from its training perch, eat (or act like you are eating) the food in front of your bird. Make sure that you really enjoy the food item, and show your enjoyment to your bird. Offer some to your bird, but do not necessarily try to force the issue. Give them a limited time to accept the offer (a few seconds). If they don’t take it, keep “eating” the food and make it obvious that you are enjoying it. Once your bird is eating the pellets during these “foraging session,” you can begin to offer pellets as the primary food choice in your bird’s dish. This will open up many opportunities for “treats” to be used as positive reinforcement and training tools in the future. Once the birds are regularly consuming a pellet diet you will notice changes in their droppings that they pass. The droppings will generally be larger and lighter in color than when on seed
• Conversion to pelletized or formulated diet (cockatiels, budgies, lovebirds): Spread a variety of choices of the pellets out on a table surface covered by towel, and set your bird down on the table. Use your hand to simulate a scratching and pecking flock member. Pick at the pellets, crunch them in your fingernails, and flick them about. Once your bird begins to eat the pellets consistently, you can replace its old diet. You may want to simulate foraging, using your fingers, in the food bowl in the cage as a final conversion training method as well. Since these species are ground-feeders, it may help to offer the pellets on the floor of the cage or in a flat dish instead of in a bowl. Even then, be sure to monitor your bird’s droppings to ensure that they are eating well. Once the birds are regularly consuming a pellet diet you will notice changes in their droppings that they pass. The droppings will generally be larger and lighter in color than when on seed. If you only see scanty, dark green feces or black feces, your bird may not be eating and will need to be offered its old diet again.
• Offer vegetables: These should be restricted to just 2 or 3 types of vegetables at a time to avoid the perception of abundance. A frozen vegetable mix (e.g., corn, diced carrots, and peas or beans) is a convenient way to accomplish this. Just thaw out a small amount each day. Select items from the refrigerator can also be used – but they do not all have to be provided every day.
• Restrict other foods: Regularly offering softened or warm foods can simulate regurgitation—a pair-bonding activity. As such, this activity needs to be curtailed in most settings. The good tasting things that your bird likes – let the bird work to earn them, through training positive reinforcement or foraging activities.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Efforts to enhance, modify and guide of feather care has very solid influence on your bird’s daily maintenance activity schedule. For those birds that are not preening normally, (either too much or too little), there are some ways that feather care can be enhanced and guided more toward normalcy:

• Mist your bird lightly every day, and sometimes even multiple times each day. Unless your bird is sick or your house is very cold (less then 55 F), you do not need to be concerned about cold-stress, particularly if it is just lightly misted. A light merely superficially dampens the feathers of the bird enough to guide its feather care towards more normal preening activity for a short time period.
• Misting can be combined with time that is shared with your bird out on a training perch. This combines flock interaction with feather care, and the combination of these two behavioral groups can enhance the lifestyle of your parrot, if not help to modify undesired behaviors.
• Offer materials for your bird to “groom” that can be destroyed if the bird so-desires. These may include a straw whisk broom, a feather duster or other similar materials that can be located in the cage or on the side of your bird’s cage. Take some time and groom or preen these while your bird observes. These types of items may provide something other than the bird’s own feathers to preen and groom (or damage), and can have great value as a part of or adjunct to behavioral modification for some feather damaging behaviors.
• Over the Counter products: There are considerable numbers of products marketed to enhanced the feather appearance of your bird – some of which have ingredients that are far from “natural” to be applied to feathers. Some of these products are realistically appropriate for mammals only – not birds. Overall, most of these products will not help, and some can actually cause harm. In general, we recommend tap water as your misting agent, and the money that you save by not purchasing some of these commercially offered sprays can be better applied toward toys or other environmental enriching products.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Once it has been determined that there is not an obvious organic problem requiring address, the REAL job of behavioral modification and enhancement begins. In general, the more actute the problem, the better the odds of success. The parrot that has been pulling its feathers for ten years is not a good candidate, prognostically, to return to normal plumage. The real focus, in spite of the apparent and heartbreaking feather damage, needs to be on the behavior and the mind of the bird, NOT the plumage.

• Take the time to assure that perceived stability and security are present in this bird’s lifestyle at home. Fear from interacting with humans and fear of falling due to inadequate perching materials or an inappropriate wing trim can lead to displacement feather damaging behaviors. Seek to rule out and/or eliminate these types of factors should they be present.
• Try to identify triggering events or sequences of events that have a role in the manifestation of feather damaging behavior. A bird that only damages its feathers when you are present, when you are absent, or when other environmental changes occur is giving us clues that should be investigated. Should there be identifiable triggers, then the real work can start: Why do these events cause such a displacement stress behavior? What can be done to teach the bird to accept some of these things? Should this bird learn to accept all of those triggering environmental events?
• Fortify basic training. Deficits in the basics make it challenging to effectively enrich and guide more normal behaviors.
• Enhance “normal” feather care through gentle misting, and also by providing other items that can be groomed in addition to your bird’s feathers.
• Enrich and enhance social interaction – in a proper manner. Correct social interaction that is engaging, stimulating, and changing is essential for mental health and well-being.
• Enrich and enhance foraging activities. Some of these activities can be combined with others in your presence, and others should be encouraged in your absence. TEACH the bird to do these things. Assume nothing beyond the likelihood that your bird is unfamiliar or even afraid of these new things!
• If there is a reproductively-pair bonded interaction present between one person and the bird, work to alter this towards a more normal flock and social interaction. For every pair bond enrichment behavior you are working to decrease, there should be several new interactive behaviors that the bird is being taught to do that can fill the void. Leave no behavioral voids by removing activities or interaction without effective replacement with others or enhancement of exisiting behaviors!
• Remember to keep your focus on the mind and lifestyle of your pet bird – not the feathers. They are merely a distraction from what you really are working on! A changing, expanding and improving mind, augmented behavioral interactions with and without you present, is the goal. A decrease in feather damaging behavior hopefully the result.
• Work most aggressively to balance the lifestyle of your bird by focusing on social interaction and foraging behaviors, predominately.
• Followup. Regular communication and followup evaluations are essential. Behavior does not usually change perfectly after one single action plan is set. Things change, and we need to change with them if we are to optimize our probability of success.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

If “normal” social interaction with their adoptive family/flock is limited, as is often the case when their human companions are away earning a living, the other maintenance behavioral groups (foraging and feather care) must be increased to fill the deficit. If the total foraging activity of a pet parrot consists only of eating out of a dish, feeding activities may not occupy much more than 20 - 30 minutes a day. Depending on the species of parrot, their wild counterparts often will devote 6 -18 hours a day foraging. Merely by increasing the daily foraging activities of a pet parrot, the daily lifestyle can be enhanced in an ornithologically sound manner. This in turn may be very beneficial as a part of behavioral modification treatments for abnormal behaviors in the other maintenance categories of feather care and social interaction. Abnormal feather care often includes “feather picking” or other feather damaging behaviors, and abnormal social interaction problems may include screaming and other abnormal vocalization, and pair bonding behaviors that result in reproductive drive associated issues.

Enhancing Foraging Behaviors.

Try some of these creative enhancement techniques, if they are applicable for your bird:

Foraging perch: A piece of non-treated wood (e.g., pine lumber) drilled with holes into which nuts, seeds, or other treats fit tightly. The reward should be visible but not accessible without chewing down through the wood. This perch material can be used with your training perch, when the bird is outside of the cage with you. The wood can also be used as a perch in the cage, or even hung in the cage to increase the challenge.

Wrapping food bowls: Wrap the food bowls with newspaper or cardboard so that your bird has to spend time chewing in to get at the food. You may have to teach your bird the first time by punching a starter hole, or simulating the foraging activity yourself, acquiring your bird’s favorite food item, and not sharing it with the bird after you find it.

Wrapping food items: You can individually wrap nuts, seeds, or other rewards in small pieces of paper, corn husks or other materials. Wrapped with a twisted end, the treat becomes an ice cream cone that requires some chewing to get at the tasty surprise inside. Not all wrappings need to contain a reward, either.

Mixing food with inedible items: Pellets or seeds can be mixed in with wood buttons or other items so that the bird has to dig through to find its food. Some parrot species can be particularly stimulated into new foraging behaviors by having a “sandbox” provided, in which some desired food items or treats can be found.

Puzzle toys: There are a variety of toys available that require birds to unscrew parts or manipulate components to get at their reward.

Trick training: By asking your bird to perform a desired behavior for a treat or reward, you are, in essence, providing a modified foraging activity for your bird. In addition, you are also having a lot of fun, and are adding in social interaction with and for your bird.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Should your pet bird view you more as a mate than a member of its flock, there is a greater risk of potential reproductive or hormonally mediated problems. This pair bonded relationship becomes even more risky if the majority of the interactive behaviors between you and your bird are of a pair-bond enriching type, as opposed to general flock interactions. Allopreening activities, when offered by their owners to their pet birds, are typically received much more willingly by the bird than true “petting” which does not have a natural counterpart in their wild counterparts. Lengthy or constantly repeated allopreening and other closely interactive activities between owner and pet bird, over time, are similar in many ways with the constant types of enrichment behavior of a bonded and/or mating pair of the bird’s wild counterparts. A continuously reinforced pair bonded relationship between owner and bird can function in many circumstances as an undesired owner-to-pet bird signal that breeding activity – and the hormones and behaviors that come with it, are justified. The reproductively stimulated pet parrot is potentially vulnerable to a wide variety of problems. Many of these problems are initially manifested behaviorally.

Some of these may include normal behaviors in an unacceptable or undesired setting such as territoriality, aggression, abnormal vocalization, feather damaging behaviors and masturbation. If not addressed properly, these problems can easily lead to more serious behavioral or medical conditions. Medical problems that can be encountered include but are not limited to chronically recurring egg laying, osteoporosis, weight loss, muscle weakness, bone weakness and fractures, egg binding, egg yolk peritonitis and internal ovulation, cloacal prolapse, oviduct torsion or impaction, and even possibly the sternal mutilation syndrome of cockatoos and the foot mutilation syndromes seen in Amazon parrots.

General actions that need to be pursued to alter the nature of a reproductive pair bonded relationship between owner and pet bird are outlined below:

• Reinforce basic training for your bird
  • A pet bird that has successfully established its own rules in your home and with your behavior is going to be challenging if not impossible to train.
• Enhance social interaction – on a flock basis
  • By altering the nature of when and how you interact with your bird, the signal sent can be a healthier, flock based one – and, a lot more fun in more ways than you can imagine!
• Decrease pair bond reinforcement interactions
  • It is not realistic to simply “stop” interacting with your bird in the manner that it is accustomed – it is important to replace those pair bonding interactions with more normal flock ones. Lots of them.
• Standardize the diet and decrease pair bond reinforcement types of feeding
  • A lower energy diet and a manner of eating that does not simulate regurgitative feeding is important to send a signal to your bird that reproductive activity is not desired or appropriate.
• Followup
  • Regular communication and followup evaluations are essential. Behavior does not usually change after one single action plan is set. Things change, and we need to change and adjust too.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Since many pet birds are hand-reared, they often have learned to recognize people as other members of their species. This recognition and the interaction that comes with it is what helps to make parrots such enjoyable companion birds in our homes. Normally, other flock members would teach the juvenile bird what social behaviors are appropriate through a system of examples and trial and error. To set your bird up for lifelong success (which can be up to 100 years in some species), it is important for you to fill this role as mentor and “Parrot Parent”. It is essential to start with a foundation of basic behaviors. These basics include step-up, step-down and staying on a perch where placed.

• “Step-Up”: Stepping up is a foundational maneuver upon which most training and behavioral guidance relies. If your bird is already fairly tame or even used to know how to step-up, then simply press your hand gently up against the front of your bird’s legs and/or say “step-up.” The verbal command “step up” is not an absolute requirement –your bird will be quite sensitive to your movements and body language, and will most often already know what is being requested. Once the bird places its foot onto the edge of your hand, lightly press the toes, and lift the bird up. Provide a firm and solid perch with your hand – a shaking, hesitant or unsure hand will not be a desirable perch for most birds to transfer their weight to. If your bird is not tame, you may have to start by “bribing” your bird to your hand by offering a small piece of a nut or seed. If the bird does not respond immediately then eat the reward in front of them (with obvious relish) and try again later. When they do step onto your hand to get to the bribe, lift your hand and the bird should hold on and follow your motion.

• “Step-Down”: Stepping down is important simply to allow for you to guide your bird’s movement. To step your bird down, with your hand positioned lower than the perch you desire it to go to, gently roll your hand towards the perch, shifting the bird’s weight forward so that they step down. In most cases, the bird should be encouraged to grasp the perch with it’s beak, and then climb up to the perch from there. In this sense, the bird is actually climbing up when being stepped down most of the time.

• “Stay”: Staying on a perch, where placed, is important for your bird to experience “normal” flock social interaction while outside of its cage with you. This simple behavioral requirement will allow your bird to share time with you, but not on you, and will not allow your bird to have free roam throughout the home. The free-roaming pet parrot is significantly positioned for increased risk of traumatic injuries and household poisonings. Behaviorally, the free-roaming pet parrot will be at risk of developing pair bonded interactions with one person, and may be less able to be guided into general flock interactions with others in the home. Portable table - top perches are great for this training since they can be put anywhere and are not usually higher than people. Set your bird on the perch and occasionally offer a stroke or reward—as long as they stay put. If they climb down and walk around, put them back without any verbal cue or other reward. Come back a few minutes later and offer a reward if they stay put, or work to devise other positive reinforcement methods that will help your bird decide that staying on the training perch is a desired thing – from their point of view.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Edited by Wyre 2011

Parrots in the wild feed themselves on fruits, seeds and nuts that they can find. According to the season the source may vary and they therefore get a varied and balanced diet

In captivity, people feed parrots sunflower seeds, peanuts and sometimes fruits and vegetables. After several years, this leads to severe health problems and can result iin early death for 1he pet In the wild, most larger species of parrot live for 40 to 70 years. In captivity, the average age is 15 years!!! The majority of these parrots die young because they have been fed a totally inappropriate diet for most of the·r life.

Seeds and peanuts are detrimental to a parrot's health for several reasons:

• Vitamin A; Thiis type of diet is totally deficient in Vitamin A. Vitamin A plays an important role: it contributes to the health and function of all tissues such as sk.in, respiratory tract & digestive tract. If vitamin A is deficient, the bird's defense against any bacteria or virus is towered. Many infections are actually primarily due to a vitamin A deficiency. Treating these infections with antibiotics alone will not cure your parrot; it wm relapse and get chronically sick, unless you change its diet to a more balanced diet.
• Fat: Excessive amounts of fat provided by seeds and peanuts leads to fatty deposits in the lbllood vessels (atherosclerosis} 1hat can lead to heart attacks and strokes. It can also cause fatty degeneration of the liver and ultimately liver failure.

• Calcium: The calcium content is low in seeds and peanuts, which leads to other health problems such as problems laying eggs and fragile bones that can break. easily.

Two options are available to improve the parrot diet:

• Home-made diet -this is NOT ideal:
  • This diet contains various food items that are normally consumed by humans, such as vegetables and fruit, and some protein source such as beans and nuts. However, a lot of parrots are so fussy that they will select their favorite food item{which may not be the healthiest component!) and the resultant diet wm still be unbalanced. Vitamin and mineral supplements that are added to the bird's water can alter the taste of the water and may not be consumed!.
• Formulated diet (pellets)+ Fresh vegetables:
  • We advise that you feed your bird a commercially prepared pelleted diet. Good brands include Harrison's, Zupreem, Roudybush and Lafeber. You can add variety by giving many vegetables, some fruits and occasional high quality nuts (such as almonds and walnuts). The pellets should repriesent 70-80% of the diet (in weight).

• Vegetables: All dark green vegetables such as bak choi, choi sam, kale, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, beet greens, swiss chard, broccoli, parsley, water cress and spinach are a good source of calcium. Fruits and vegetables that are high in vitamin A are rnd, yellow and orange in color and include apricots, melons, cherries, peaches, carrots, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, mango and papaya.

• Fruit: Most fruits are acceptable in parrots in small quantities, but avoid avocado as it is toxic to birds. Remember to wash all fruits and vegetables thoroughly before feeding to your parrot as pesticide residues are very toxic to birds. It is 'important to make sure the fruits you are offering are brightly colored even in the middle. Fruits such as bananas, apples and grapes are pale in the inside and h!ave too much sugar. Refer to the handout on fruits that are high vn vitamin A.

TIPS TO CONVERT YOUR BIRD TO PELLETS

Think of your bird as a spoiled child that has been fed ice cream for years! You will have to be firm! The pellets will not be as 1asty as the fatty seeds and peanuts but they are healthier!

• The first step is to allow yoU1r bird to realize that the new food iitem is edible. For pellets, this can be accomplished by crushing the pellets and sprinkling it over a favorite moistened food item that they currently love to eat (such as rice, pasta, any vegetable or fruit).

• Sometimes, adding small amounts of guava juice to the pellets may encourage the bird to taste the pellets. However, do not leave pellets wet for more than a few hours, as 1 It will allow bacteria and mold contamination.

• Once you see that the bird has tasted the pellets, mix the pellets with the seeds and peanuts. Gradually reduce the volume of seeds and peanuts and increase 1he amount of pests over six weeks.
• If this fails, you may have to offer the new pellets for 30 minutes 2 or 3 times each day, instead of leaving food available all day. This is best done in the morning when the bird is hungry_

• While you are converting to a pelleted diet, it is important to monitor your bird's feces. Make sure that they are always producing feces. If they are not producing feces, this means that they are not eatiing and they will need to be offered more of their origiinal diet. If your bird develops diarrhea, please stop giving the pellets and contact your veterinarian. *Please note that if you are feeding the colored Zupreem pellets, your bird's feces will change colors - this is normal.
• While you are converted to a pelleted diet, weigh your bird once daily at the same time every day. Their weight should not vary by more than 5% on a daily basis. If the weight is decreasing, your bird is not eating enough and could become very sick.

• It is sometimes good to hospitalize the bird for a few days to convert it to pellets.

If you have any problems converting your bird to the proper pelleted diet please contact your vet for further advice. Do not give up - most birds take up to 1 month to convert. It is essential to your parrot's good health and long life to feed the correct diet.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Edited by Wyre 2011

Psittacosis is a disease caused by a bacterial infection called Chlamydophila psittaci . It is very contagious between birds and can sometimes be transmitted to humans. This disease is also called "ornithosis", "chlamydiosis" or "parrot fever".

PSITTACOSIS TRANSMISSION

• This bacterium is shed in the feces, respiratory tract and eyes in birds. Then the bacteria are breathed in by other birds or people.
• The bacteria can sometimes be concentrated in the feces and when this dries it can turn into "dust" which can be breathed in.
• Infection also can occur if an infected bird sneezes onto another bird or a human.
• Places like pet shops and bird markets are places where birds are likely to contract the disease. Birds that are imported illegally are also more likely to be infected.

DISEASE

• It is very important to realize that a bird can harbor the bacteria and can spread the disease without presenting any clinical signs.
• Birds tend to shed the bacteria under conditions of stress such as moving to a new home, being shipped, stressed/overcrowded or sick with another disease.
• There are no specific signs that indicate that a bird has Psittacosis. However, the following signs may be suggestive:
  • Lack of appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Depression, sitting fluffed at the bottom of the cage
  • Watery, green/yellow droppings
  • Discharge from the eyes and nostrils
  • Excessive sneezing

DIAGNOSIS

• Definitive diagnosis of Psittacosis is difficult because there is no test that is 100% reliable in the live bird.  Often, a presumptive diagnosis will be made based on the symptoms, history, blood tests and radiographs.
• There are several testing options, but commonly a sample is taken to see if the bird is shedding the bacteria. This is done by taking a swab of the bird's conjunctiva (eye), choana (roof of mouth) and cloaca (anus). The sample is

Edited by Wyre 2011

submitted for "PCR testing". Unfortunately, this test can be negative if the bird is sick with Psittacosis but is not currently shedding the bacteria.

• Another test that may also be performed is a blood test that looks at the body's immune system to see if it has been exposed to the bacteria. Sometimes this test is repeated 2 weeks later.

TREATMENT

• The treatment consists of antibiotics (called Doxycycline or Azithromycin) and will last for 3 weeks. The success varies according to how long the bird has been ill, its age, species and other concurrent infection.
• The antibiotics will either be administered by you at home and will need to be given by for the full course. Another option is to have the veterinarian give your bird an antibiotic injection that lasts for one week. The bird will need to get this injection once a week for 3-6 weeks.
• As soon as a bird is diagnosed with Psittacosis, it must be isolated from other birds.
• It is possible that other birds in the house may have to be tested or treated as well.
• If your bird is being treated with antibiotics by mouth, do NOT put any mineral supplements into the water - this may interfere with the antibiotics and make them stop working
• There is no immunity to the disease - birds are susceptible to re-infection even after full recovery from the infection.

PREVENTING PSITTACOSIS IN HUMANS

• It is relatively rare that the disease is passed on to humans and it is not contagious between humans. Humans that are potentially at a higher risk of infection include those who are immunosuppressed, the very young and the elderly.
• Signs of this disease in humans are similar to the signs of influenza: fever, chills, headache, muscle aches or respiratory signs (cough, difficulty breathing).
• It is important that anyone who develops these symptoms for an unusual length of time should mention to their doctor that he/she is in contact with birds.
• During the bird's treatment, try to reduce the contact with the bird to a minimum - do not kiss your bird or put them near your face/mout h as the bacteria can be shed from their eyes and respiratory tract.
• When you are cleaning the bird's cage, try to reduce the risk of breathing in fecal dust. Use a mask and gloves when cleaning the cage. It is important to keep the cage clean in order to decrease the build up of dried feces. The cage can be disinfected with diluted bleach (mix 120 ml bleach in 2 L of water). The bleach must remain in contact with the cage for 10-15 minutes and then the cage should be rinsed with warm water.  When you are bleaching the cage make sure that your bird is NOT in the cage or in the same room as the bleach. Bleach can be irritating to their respiratory tract.

Edited by Wyre 2011

PREVENTING PSITTACOSIS IN YOUR BIRD

• Any newly purchased bird should be brought to a veterinarian to be examined and tested.
  • Do not buy any bird that looks ill.
  • Do not allow your bird to come into contact with other birds - this includes other pet birds (boarding, going to pet store for tail trims/wing trims) and wild birds.
  • Do NOT allow the new bird to have any contact with your bird for at least 6 weeks.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic.

Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

CAGE SET UP FOR SICK BIRDS (AVIAN)

• It is important for your bird to get plenty of sleep - therefore they need to be in a warm, dark and quiet cage. They should be kept away from the air conditioning and should have 3 sides and the top of the cage covered by a sheet or towel. The cage should be placed in an area away from the TV, stereo and windows.
• The ideal temperature to keep your bird while he/she is sick is 24-26°C. When using a heat source, make sure that it does NOT contain 'Teflon" which is toxic to birds. Also, make sure you are using a heating unit that is approved to be used indoors.
• It is important that your bird not play or climb around the cage. All perches should be removed from the cage so they can sit on the bottom and save their energy. If you notice that your bird is climbing on the sides of the cage, you will need to move them to a different cage without wire (such as a glass aquarium). The floor of the cage should be a flaUsolid surface - no wire or grate. You can cover the floor of the cage with newspapers and soft paper towels for your bird to sit on. Do not take your bird out of the cage unless you're are giving medications or cleaning the cage. Do not allow them to fly.
• It is important that your bird eat frequently. Offer your bird all of their favorite foods. You can try hand-feeding to encourage them to eat. Make sure that the food is placed in many areas on the floor of the cage so that they don't have to move far to eat.
• It is important that your bird drink frequently to prevent dehydration. You can place several water bowls on the floor of the cage so that they don't have to move far to drink. Make sure the water is changed as soon as it becomes dirty.

MEDICATIONS

• It is important to give ali the medications as instructed by your veterinarian.
• Do not stop the medications without asking the veterinarian, EVEN IF the bird starts to feel better.

MONITORING

• Watch your bird's respiratory rate and effort. When a bird is healthy it should be very difficult to see them breathe. Birds that are having trouble breathing will sound noisy when they breathe open their mouths to breathe, and/or bob their tails up and down while they are breathing. Tell your veterinarian if you notice any of these signs.
• Monitor your bird's droppings. A bird should be defecating all day. If your bird is not defecating, it could mean that they are not eating enough. The feces (brown/green part) should be well formed and the urates (white part) should be white with a small ring of urine. Contact your veterinarian if the droppings seem watery, discolored, contain blood or if the urates look yellow or green.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.