Pet Care - Chinchilla

  • Chinchillas Dental (Tooth) Disease

    Edited by N. Wyre, 2011

    ABOUT CHINCHILLAS DENTAL(Tooth) DISEASE

    • In the wild, chinchillas and rabbits eat dry grasses and brush. This is very tough on their teeth, so they have adapted the ability to have their teeth grow throughout their life. This is called “open-rooted” teeth which are very different from the teeth of humans, dogs and cats.
    • Because rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas should be eating this tough/high fiber food all of the time, their teeth grow very rapidly. Their teeth usually grow at a rate of 2-3mm/week! Therefore, if your chinchilla or rabbit is not eating the proper tough/high fiber food (such as hay), their teeth will not be worn down and will grow too long.
    • When teeth grow abnormally they can grow too long inside their mouth – this leads to cuts on the tongue and cheeks which can be very painful. Additionally, the reserve crown (base of the teeth) can grow too long into the jaw bone. When this happens, you can feel the long tooth (long reserve crowns) along the jaw bone. This is very painful!
    • Not only can long teeth cause pain, they are also more likely to get infected. When this happens, abscesses (pockets of infection) can form in the tooth and jawbone. This is very serious and needs to be treated with surgery.

    SIGNS OF CHINCHILLAS DENTAL PROBLEMS

    • When their teeth become too long, infected or loose this is very painful and irritating to your pet’s mouth.
    • They may drool a lot (wetness around the mouth and/or front feet), paw at their mouth, stop eating, decrease their eating, drop food from their mouths, have decreased feces, smaller feces, stomach pain, bleeding from the mouth, swellings around the mouth or bad breath.
    • Because the reserve crowns can grow too long, dental disease can affect other parts of the face as well. The long roots can cause compression of the tube that takes tears from the corner of the eye to the nose (naso-lacrimal duct). This will cause tears to flow down the side of the face. If there is an abscess associated with teeth in the upper jaw, this can cause the eye to poke out of the face.
    • If you notice any of these signs, it is important to contact your veterinarian right away.

    DIAGNOSING DENTAL DISEASE

    • Many times dental disease can be diagnosed during a physical examination. Sometimes animals need to be sedated to have their mouths looked at more closely.
    • Once dental disease has been suspected, your veterinarian may recommend skull x-rays to look at the reserve crowns and jaw bone.
    • If your veterinarian thinks your animal will need general anesthesia, they may recommend pre-anesthetic blood work to look at the liver, kidneys, protein values, red and white blood cells. They also may recommend x-rays of the abdomen (belly) if they have not been eating well or defecating normally.

    TREATING DENTAL DISEASE

    • Once your rabbit, guinea pig or chinchilla has dental disease, it is very difficult to cure them. They will usually need some sort of treatment for the rest of their lives. Some need treatment once a week, some need treatment once a month and some only need it a couple of times a year. Each animal is different and it is impossible to know how often your animal will require treatment.
    • When the teeth are too long inside the mouth, the only way to treat this is to perform general anesthesia and use a special drill to remove the long teeth. Your veterinarian may recommend pre-anesthetic blood work and/or an intravenous catheter placement to give fluids and medications into the vessels throughout the procedure. After the dental trimming, your veterinarian may recommend antibiotics, pain medications or syringe feeding a special diet called Herbivore Critical Care.
    • If there is an abscess associated with the teeth, your veterinarian may recommend surgery to remove the infected tooth and bone or they may recommend surgical removal of the abscess with placement of a special cloth (gauze) that has antibiotics in it or special medical beads that contain antibiotics. nYour animal will go home on pain medication and antibiotics after the surgery. It is much more serious when a tooth has an abscess – it takes a long time for this to heal and will require many visits to the veterinarian. Even if an abscess is successfully treated, it is common that your rabbit/chinchilla/guinea pig will develop another abscess in another part of the jaw/mouth.

    GETTING YOUR PET READY FOR TREATMENT

    • Sometimes animals are too sick to have general anesthesia to treat their dental disease. If this is the case with your pet, your veterinarian may recommend that your pet be hospitalized for fluid therapy (if they are dehydrated), syringe feeding (if they have not been eating), antibiotics and pain medications. It is important that patients be feeling better before they have their teeth trimmed or have surgery for abscesses. Your veterinarian may also want you to do some of these treatments at home.

    Terms of Use:

    This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

    While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

    Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

    In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

    For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

    This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

  • Chinchillas Gastrointestinal GI Stasis

    WHAT IS Chinchillas GI STASIS?

    • Rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas have a specialized gut with special bacteria that allows then to eat very fibrous food like hay and grass. Rabbits and chinchillas need to be eating and defecating all the time to ensure that this special gut is always moving. If your rabbit, guinea pig or chinchilla has GI stasis this means that your pet’s gut (stomach and intestinal tract) are not moving like it is supposed to. Therefore, feces are not being produced. When the gut is not moving, the special bacteria that usually break down the hay and grass can produce a lot of gas. This can cause your pet to feel distended and gassy. This is painful and can make your pet not want to eat.  When your pet stops eating, this makes the GI stasis worse.

    WHAT CAUSES GI STASIS?

    • Many different things can cause your rabbit/chinchilla/guinea pig’s gut to stop working. Stress, illness, cancer, pain, teeth problems, inappropriate foods (too much sugar, not enough fiber) can all cause GI stasis.

    CLINICAL SIGNS OF GI STASIS

    • Signs include a decreased appetite, a loss of appetite, painful belly, bloated belly, lethargy, hiding, not drinking, decreased urine production, decreased fecal production, production of small or dry feces and diarrhea.
    • If you notice any of these signs in your rabbit or chinchilla this is an EMERGENCY and you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

    DIAGNOSIS OF GI STASIS

    • Many times GI stasis will be diagnosed based on history, clinical signs and physical examination findings. Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical examination to feel the belly and look in the mouth for signs of dental disease.
    • Radiographs will be necessary to give the veterinarian an idea of how the gut looks and to assess the amount of gas, food and feces that are in the gut.Radiographs of the skull may also be necessary to look at the teeth.
    • Blood work will be necessary to assess the kidneys, liver, protein, red and white blood cells to look for any underlying disease and to assess organ function.

    TREATMENT OF GI STASIS

    • Your veterinarian may recommend that your pet be hospitalized for treatment or they may recommend treatments for you to do at home.
    • Your pet will be given fluids to prevent dehydration, syringe feeding of a special diet (Herbivore Critical Care) and pain medications.
    • Treatment of GI stasis usually takes days to weeks depending on its severity and any underlying disease. Your animal will not be ready for general anesthesia to treat dental disease or other issues until it is more stable (better hydrated, gut less gassy and less painful). It is important to be patient and follow all of the veterinarian’s recommendations.

    Terms of Use:

    This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

    While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

    Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

    In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

    For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet. This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

  • Care of Chinchillas

    Edited by N. Wyre, 2011

    Chinchillas DIET

    • The wild chinchilla lives on a diet of grasses and leaves and has a specialized gut which is adapted to eat high fiber. The large intestine contains bacteria and yeast which breaks down the grass to make it digestible. The adult chinchilla needs a high fiber, restricted carbohydrate, restricted protein and virtually no fat diet to stay healthy.
    • The most important thing in a chinchilla's diet is Timothy hay. Your chinchilla must have 24 hour access to loose Timothy hay. Check that the hay is good quality; it should have a fresh sweet smell, not dusty or moldy.
    • Young chinchillas (less than 6 months of age) can also have alfalfa hay in addition to Timothy hay. You can also give your chinchilla a few hay cubes, but this does NOT replace the loose hay.
    • Chinchillas do not require pellets in their diet. Pellets have too many calories and not enough fiber. Additionally, they are very bad for their teeth. If you are going to give pellets, do not give more than one spoonful daily.
    • Fresh vegetables: You can offer your chinchilla fresh greens twice daily. If your chinchilla has never had greens before, make sure that you introduce it very slowly - giving only a small amount of one new green a week. Fresh greens include romaine lettuce, red/green leaf lettuce, carrot tops, arugula (rocket), radicchio, and cilantro. Avoid dark leafy greens (kale, collard greens, bok choi) as these are too high in calcium.
    • Treats: As a treat, you can offer your chinchilla a small piece (no larger than 1 cm) of a carrot or an apple. They should not receive more than one treat per week.
    • Inappropriate foods: You should NEVER offer your chinchilla other treats such as seeds or sugary snacks. This are not appropriate and can upset their stomach
    • Remember that any diet changes MUST be made slowly. If it is too fast, this can upset the gut and cause bacterial imbalances and that can kill your chinchilla. It may take up to 1 week to introduce a new vegetable or hay.

    WATER

    • 24 hour access is essential. The bowl or bottle should be scrubbed out with soap every other day to prevent mold and bacterial growth.

    DUST BATH

    • A fresh dust bath should be offered every few days. Do NOT keep the dust bath in the cage with the chinchilla.

    CAGE

    • A large cage should be used, with vertical space for jumping. The floors must be solid, as chinchillas can break their leg if it gets trapped between bars or grates.
    • Keep the cage clean and dry. The floor of the cage can be lined with shredded paper towels or newspaper. We do not recommend the use of wooden shavings (chips) as this can cause respiratory tract irritation.
    • Exercise is very important for chinchillas. You can put a running wheel in the cage. Make sure the wheel is made of solid plastic - do not use metal wheels as their feet and/or legs can become trapped and broken.

    ENVIRONMENT

    • Chinchillas originally come from the top of the Andes Mountains, where it is cold, dry and quiet. Therefore, it is very important to keep them cool and dry especially in the summer. Never leave them in the sun. During the summer, they should always be kept in an air conditioned room that is no warmer than 70 º F (21 C).
    • Chinchillas are nervous animals and suffer easily from stress. Keep them quiet; don’t keep them next to the TV or stereo.
    • Chinchillas are nocturnal (sleep during the day and are awake at night), so it is important for them to be in a quiet, cool place during the day so that they can get appropriate sleep.
    • Handle them gently. Be very careful with their fragile tails and fragile fur - do not grab them by the tail as this may cause the tail to break or the fur and skin to fall off.

    HEALTH

    • Check the teeth and the bottoms of the feet regularly. Contact your veterinarian if you notice that the feet are red, swollen, wet or painful. Contact your veterinarian if you notice that the teeth are crooked, too long, broken or discolored. Additionally, contact your veterinarian if you notice that your chinchilla is drooling, has wetness around the mouth or front legs or is dropping food from its mouth.
    • It is very important that chinchillas are always eating and always defecating. The feces should be the same amount, color and size (about 1/3 inch) every day. It is an emergency if your chinchilla stops eating, stops defecating, produces small feces or develops diarrhea. Please contact your veterinarian immediately.
    • Chinchillas are very good at hiding signs of being sick. Therefore take them to the vet quickly if your chinchilla is acting abnormally at all - more sleepy, has droopy eyes, has watery eyes or seems to be too quite. They can become very sick very quickly so be vigilant!
    • Chinchillas should be seen by an exotics veterinarian every year for an annual health check. Blood work should be performed every year starting at 4 years of age.

    COMMON PROBLEMS

    • Dental disease (overgrown teeth)
    • GI stasis (not eating or defecating for more than 6 hours)
    • Pododermatitis (sores on the foot pads)
    • Fractures of the back legs (from inappropriate housing or exercise wheels)
    • Heart murmurs
    • Seizures

    Terms of Use:

    This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

    While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

    Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

    In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

    For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

    This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

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