Pet Care - Hamster

  • Care of Golden Hamsters

    Edited by N. Wyre, 2016

    About Golden Hamsters

    • Wild golden hamsters (also called Syrian hamsters) are originally from a dry environment in northern Syria and southern Turkey.
    • Even though hamsters are from the Middle East, they still can get overheated. To prevent overheating they should not kept near windows or heaters. The ideal temperature is around 21℃.
    • Golden hamsters are solitary in the wild and should NOT be housed together as pets or they can attack or even kill one another.
    • Golden hamsters have two scent glands located on their flanks. These are dark brown/black in color. Sometimes male hamsters will use this scent gland to mark his territory.
    • Hamsters have yellow front teeth that grow throughout their life. Therefore they need plenty of things to gnaw on to prevent their teeth from overgrowing.

    DIET

    • We do not recommend offering a mixed diet of seeds, pellets and dried corn because hamsters prefer the high fat sunflower seeds and high carbohydrate corn. This can lead to obesity and nutritional deficiencies that cause fur and skin abnormalities.
    • Instead, a high quality pelleted diet made specifically for hamsters should make up the majority of your hamsters diet. Good brands include Oxbow and Mazuri.
    • Additionally, they should also be offered fresh fruits and vegetables daily such as carrots, leafy greens, broccoli, sweet potato, peas, edamame, pumpkin, squash and berries. If you hamster has never had fresh fruits and veggies before, start off with a small piece of a new item to make sure it does not cause diarrhea.
    • Golden hamsters do not usually like to eat insects like dwarf hamsters.

    WATER

    • 24 hour access is essential. The bowl or bottle should be scrubbed out with soap every other day to prevent mold and bacterial growth.

    CAGE

    • Hamsters kept in cages that are too small can be stressed. The minimum size cage is 60 cm x 30 cm x 23 cm (L x W x H) per hamster. They are very good at escaping so make sure the cage bars are close enough together and make sure they cannot chew through the cage if it is plastic.
    • It is also important for your hamster to different levels in the cage to encourage exercise. Make sure that the ramps and the different levels in the cage are made of solid plastic and not metal because they can get their legs trapped and broken. The levels should not be too tall or the hamster may fall and injure itself.
    • Keep the cage clean and dry. The floor of the cage can be lined with shredded paper towels, shredded newspaper or paper bedding such as Carefresh or Eco- Bedding. We do not recommend the use of wooden shavings (chips) as this can cause respiratory tract irritation.
    • Hamsters like a lot of bedding to hide in – ideally 40 cm deep! It is important for them to have more than 10 cm deep bedding to decrease their chances of gnawing on the bars of their cage.
    • Have a small box or hiding area for your hamster to sleep in. They will bring bedding into the box to make a nest which is important to keep them warm while they are sleeping. Do not provide cotton or cloth for bedding because the can get wrapped around their feet or stuck in their cheek pouches.
    • Toys are very important to prevent boredom! They like hollow cardboard tubes and natural wood (untreated) toys that encourage normal gnawing.
    • Exercise is very important for hamsters. You can put a running wheel in the cage. Make sure the wheel is made of solid plastic - do not use metal wheels as their feet and/or legs can become trapped and broken. In general, hamsters prefer larger wheels (32 cm diameter). Smaller wheels designed for mice can damage their fur.

    ENVIRONMENT                   

    • Hamsters are crepuscular (awake during dawn and dusk), so it is important for them to be in a quiet, place so that they can get appropriate sleep when they are not active.
    • Handle them gently. Be very careful, especially with children as hamsters can bite and may be dropped easily.

    HEALTH

    • It is very important that hamsters are always eating and always defecating. The feces should be the same amount, color and size every day. It is an emergency if your hamster stops eating, stops defecating, produces small feces or develops diarrhea. Please contact your veterinarian immediately.
    • Hamsters are very good at hiding signs of being sick. Therefore take them to the vet quickly if your hamster is acting abnormally at all - more sleepy, watery eyes, increased breathing, sneezing or not eating. They can become very sick very quickly so be vigilant!
    • Hamsters should be seen by an exotics veterinarian every 6 months for a health check to look for any signs of disease.

    COMMON PROBLEMS

    • Heart disease and trouble breathing
    • Diarrhea (“Wet Tail”)
    • Fur loss
    • Itchy skin
    • Front teeth overgrowth
    • Fractured legs
    • Eye irritation
    • Prolapsed cheek pouches
    • Cancer
    • Scent gland impaction

    References

    • Brandao J, Mayer J. Behavior of rodents with an emphasis on enrichment. Journal of Exotic Pet Medicine, Vol 20, No 4 (October), 2011; pp256-269.
    • Richardson VG. Diseases of small domestic rodents, 2nd Ed. Blackwell Publishing, 2003.

    Terms of Use:

    This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

    While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

    Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

    In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

    For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

    This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

  • Care of Dwarf Hamsters

    Edited by N. Wyre, 2016

    BACKGROUND

    • Siberian dwarf hamsters (Phodopus sungorus) are also called Russian dwarf or Djungarian hamsters.
    • Wild Siberian dwarf hamsters are originally from the meadows and fields of Southern Russia/Central-Northern Asia (Khazakhstan, Mongolia and Siberia).
    • Siberian dwarf hamsters prefer to live together but they sometimes fight – especially if they are introduced to one another as adults. Therefore, if you have more than one dwarf hamster living together you must closely watch them for signs of fighting.
    • Because they are from a cold environment, dwarf hamsters can get overheated easily. Therefore, they should be kept between 18-21° C (64-70° F).
    • Dwarf hamsters have one scent gland on their belly and two on their sides (one on either side near their ribs). This is light brown in color. Sometimes male hamsters will use this scent gland to mark his territory.
    • Hamsters have yellow front teeth that grow throughout their life. Therefore they need plenty of things to gnaw on to prevent their teeth from overgrowing.
    • The fur of dwarf hamsters can normally change color with the seasons and can be darker in color and longer in the summer and lighter in color and denser in the winter.

    DIET

    • We do not recommend offering a mixed diet of seeds, pellets and dried corn because hamsters prefer the high fat sunflower seeds and high carbohydrate corn. This can lead to obesity and nutritional deficiencies that cause fur and skin abnormalities.
    • Instead, a high quality pelleted diet made specifically for hamsters should make up the majority of your hamsters diet. Good brands include Oxbow and Mazuri.
    • Additionally, they should also be offered fresh fruits and vegetables daily such as carrots, leafy greens, broccoli, sweet potato, peas, edamame, pumpkin, squash and berries. If you hamster has never had fresh fruits and veggies before, start off with a small piece of a new item to make sure it does not cause diarrhea.
    • Dwarf hamsters do like insects as snacks. Make sure to gut load the insects for at least 2 days before feeding them to your hamster so that they are more nutritious.

    WATER

    • 24 hour access is essential. The bowl or bottle should be scrubbed out with soap every other day to prevent mold and bacterial growth.

    CAGE

    • Hamsters kept in cages that are too small can be stressed. The minimum size cage is 60 cm x 30 cm x 23 cm (L x W x H) per hamster. They are very good at escaping so make sure the cage bars are close enough together and make sure they cannot chew through the cage if it is plastic.
    • It is also important for your hamster to different levels in the cage to encourage exercise. Make sure that the ramps and the different levels in the cage are made of solid plastic and not metal because they can get their legs trapped and broken. The levels should not be too tall or the hamster may fall and injure itself.
    • Keep the cage clean and dry. The floor of the cage can be lined with shredded paper towels, shredded newspaper or paper bedding such as Carefresh or Eco- Bedding. We do not recommend the use of wooden shavings (chips) as this can cause respiratory tract irritation.
    • Hamsters like a lot of bedding to hide in – ideally 40 cm deep! It is important for them to have more than 10 cm deep bedding to decrease their chances of gnawing on the bars of their cage.
    • Have a small box or hiding area for your hamster to sleep in. They will bring bedding into the box to make a nest which is important to keep them warm while they are sleeping. Do not provide cotton or cloth for bedding because the can get wrapped around their feet or stuck in their cheek pouches.
    • Toys are very important to prevent boredom! They like hollow cardboard tubes and natural wood (untreated) toys that encourage normal gnawing.
    • Exercise is very important for hamsters. You can put a running wheel in the cage. Make sure the wheel is made of solid plastic - do not use metal wheels as their feet and/or legs can become trapped and broken. In general, hamsters prefer larger wheels (32 cm diameter). Smaller wheels designed for mice can damage their fur.

    ENVIRONMENT

    • Hamsters are crepuscular (awake during dawn and dusk), so it is important for them to be in a quiet, place so that they can get appropriate sleep when they are not active.
    • Handle them gently. Be very careful, especially with children as hamsters can bite and may be dropped easily.

    HEALTH

    • It is very important that hamsters are always eating and always defecating. The feces should be the same amount, color and size every day. It is an emergency if your hamster stops eating, stops defecating, produces small feces or develops diarrhea. Please contact your veterinarian immediately.
    • Hamsters are very good at hiding signs of being sick. Therefore take them to the vet quickly if your hamster is acting abnormally at all - more sleepy, watery eyes, increased breathing, sneezing or not eating. They can become very sick very quickly so be vigilant!
    • Hamsters should be seen by an exotics veterinarian every 6 months for a health check to look for any signs of disease.

    COMMON PROBLEMS

    • Heart disease and trouble breathing
    • Diarrhea (“Wet Tail”)
    • Fur loss
    • Itchy skin
    • Front teeth overgrowth
    • Fractured legs
    • Eye irritation
    • Prolapsed cheek pouches
    • Cancer
    • Scent gland impaction

    References:

    • Brandao J, Mayer J. Behavior of rodents with an emphasis on enrichment. Journal of Exotic Pet Medicine, Vol 20, No 4 (October), 2011; pp256-269.
    • Richardson VG. Diseases of small domestic rodents, 2nd Ed. Blackwell Publishing, 2003.

    Terms of Use:

    This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

    While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

    Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

    In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

    For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

    This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

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