Edited by N. Wyre, 2016

What is “sore hocks” and what causes it?

• Sore hocks is a condition in which the sole of a rabbit's foot becomes raw and inflamed.
• There are several predisposing factors that lead to sore hocks. These include rabbits that:
  • Are obese and unable to be able to stand correctly due to too much weight on their body. The rabbit may put unnatural pressure on points of their feet that are not meant to support a lot of weight.
  • Have long nails. Rabbits with long nails place too much weight on their heels.
  • Have arthritis or some other underlying skeletal problems causing them to be immobile. These rabbits will stand in an unnatural position putting pressure on delicate points of their feet causing sores.
  • Are on improper flooring. Rabbits need soft flooring. Wire flooring does not provide sufficient support like natural grass. It can cause the foot to bow unnaturally and can sometimes cause trauma if feet get caught between the wires. Tile, linoleum or flooring with slippery bottoms can also be problematic. Lack of traction can cause painful problem in feet, pelvic joints and pectoral joints leading to arthritis and in severe cases “splay leg”.
  • Have poor hygiene and damp bedding.
  • Have poor physical conformation.
  • Are large breed rabbits.
  • Are Rex breed rabbits (have less fur covering their foot pads).

Why do rabbits develop sore hocks?

How do you treat “sore hocks”?

• In nature, wild rabbits spend its time moving around on grass and earth.The grass and earth are compliant so that their nails can sink into the earth. When their nails sink into the grass and earth, it allows full contact of the entire foot with the ground, hence reducing pressure on the foot.
• However when rabbits are placed on hard, non-compliant surfaces where their nails cannot sink into the earth, it causes the front part of their foot to be lifted higher off the ground and the majority of the pressure is placed on their hocks, causing a pressure sore.

What are signs to look out for with a rabbit with sore hocks?

• The usual site of trouble is at the tip of the heel. However some cases may involve any or all of the weight bearing parts of the foot.
• ALL rabbits have a small, bare, pale pink callused area right at the tip of the heel, covered by a fold of fur. This is normal. DO NOT BE ALARMED.
• Sore hocks begin with a clear area of fur loss with hardened pink skin in the center.
• As sore hocks progress, the callus becomes red and inflamed rather than the pale pink callused area.
• If the area is left untreated, it may worsen further. The redness may darken, the area of redness may increase and the area may begin to look swollen and puffy. At this stage, a pressure sore or an open ulcer may develop; they are very difficult to treat and recurrence is common.

How do you treat “sore hocks”?

• The first step is to treat the underlying problem. For example, overweight rabbits can benefit from weight loss.
• If the bedding is wet or damp, change the bedding to a softer, more compliant surface.
• Clip nails as short as possible.
• Veterinary care is important as sore hocks can be painful and if not treated properly, can progress to very serious conditions such as bone infections.
• Veterinary treatment may include antibiotics, anti-inflammatory (NSAIDs) and other types of pain relieving drugs.
• Other treatment may include topical preparation and in severe cases bandaging.

How do you prevent “sore hocks”?

• To prevent sore hocks, indoor rabbits (Please see handout on “9 reasons not to keep your bunny outdoors”) need clean, soft and an overall hygienic lifestyle to provide enough traction for healthy movement.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Edited by N. Wyre, 2016

WHAT IS GI STASIS?

• Rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas have a specialized gut with special bacteria that allows then to eat very fibrous food like hay and grass. Rabbits and chinchillas need to be eating and defecating all the time to ensure that this special gut is always moving. If your rabbit, guinea pig or chinchilla has GI stasis this means that your pet’s gut (stomach and intestinal tract) are not moving like it is supposed to. Therefore, feces are not being produced. When the gut is not moving, the special bacteria that usually break down the hay and grass can produce a lot of gas. This can cause your pet to feel distended and gassy. This is painful and can make your pet not want to eat.  When your pet stops eating, this makes the GI stasis worse.

WHAT CAUSES GI STASIS?

• Many different things can cause your rabbit/chinchilla/guinea pig’s gut to stop working. Stress, illness, cancer, pain, teeth problems, inappropriate foods (too much sugar, not enough fiber) can all cause GI stasis.

CLINICAL SIGNS OF GI STASIS

• Signs include a decreased appetite, a loss of appetite, painful belly, bloated belly, lethargy, hiding, not drinking, decreased urine production, decreased fecal production, production of small or dry feces and diarrhea.

• If you notice any of these signs in your rabbit or chinchilla this is an EMERGENCY and you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

DIAGNOSIS OF GI STASIS

• Many times GI stasis will be diagnosed based on history, clinical signs and physical examination findings. Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical examination to feel the belly and look in the mouth for signs of dental disease.
• Radiographs will be necessary to give the veterinarian an idea of how the gut looks and to assess the amount of gas, food and feces that are in the gut.Radiographs of the skull may also be necessary to look at the teeth.

• Blood work will be necessary to assess the kidneys, liver, protein, red and white blood cells to look for any underlying disease and to assess organ function.

TREATMENT OF GI STASIS

• Your veterinarian may recommend that your pet be hospitalized for treatment or they may recommend treatments for you to do at home.

• Your pet will be given fluids to prevent dehydration, syringe feeding of a special diet (Herbivore Critical Care) and pain medications.

• Treatment of GI stasis usually takes days to weeks depending on its severity and any underlying disease. Your animal will not be ready for general anesthesia to treat dental disease or other issues until it is more stable (better hydrated, gut less gassy and less painful). It is important to be patient and follow all of the veterinarian’s recommendations.

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet. This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.

Edited by N. Wyre, 2016

BACKGROUND:

Rabbits are very gentle and social and make excellent pets. They generally enjoy their owners company and attention. Bunnies are quite interactive and communicate with thumping, ear positions and kicks in the air called binkies. They enjoy many toys and love to chew things. Their chewing habit is the number one reason why rabbits should not be allowed free range in the house. "Rabbit-proofing" your home is very important, especially securing cords from reach. Do not allow them to chew paint off the wall or nibble on anything other than their toys. Rabbits do not vomit and may not survive gastrointestinal surgeries, so do your best to help prevent accidental ingestion of household materials and products. Be careful with handling your rabbit. They have very powerful hind legs and can break their backs when they kick forcefully to free themselves. Ask your vet how to properly lift and support your rabbit's hind legs. Also, remember that rabbits have no sweat glands in their skin as we do and dissipate heat from their ears. It is important to keep your rabbits cool, as they can easily fall easily to heatstroke at temperatures above 29° C. Therefore, rabbits should always be kept at 21-23° C and should be in air conditioning when it is hot and humid outside.

DIET

• The wild rabbit lives on a diet of grasses and leaves and has a specialized gut which is adapted for this. The large intestine contains bacteria and yeast which break down the grass to make it digestible.
• The adult rabbit needs a high fiber, restricted carbohydrate, restricted protein and virtually no fat diet to stay healthy.
• The most important thing in a rabbit's diet is Timothy hay. Your rabbit must have 24 hour access to loose Timothy hay. Check that the hay is good quality; it should have a fresh sweet smell, not dusty or moldy.Young rabbits (less than 6 months of age) can also have alfalfa hay in addition to Timothy hay.Rabbits do not require pellets in their diet. Pellets have too many calories and not enough fiber. Additionally, they are very bad for their teeth. You can offer a small amount of pellets (less than a teaspoon per day) to encourage foraging (see below in “Foraging”).
• Fresh vegetables: You can offer your rabbit a bowl fresh greens twice daily. If your rabbit has never had greens before, make sure that you introduce it very slowly - giving only a small amount of one new green a week. Fresh greens include romaine lettuce, red/green leaf lettuce, carrot tops, arugula (rocket), radicchio, and cilantro.
• Avoid dark leafy greens (kale, collard greens, bok choi) as these are too high in calcium.
• Treats:  As a treat, you can offer your rabbit a small piece (no larger than 1 cm) of carrot, celery or apple. They should not receive more than one treat per week.
• Inappropriate foods: You should NEVER offer your rabbit other treats such as seeds or sugary s nacks. This are not appropriate and can upset their stomach
• Remember that any diet changes MUST be made slowly. If it is too fast, this can upset the gut and cause bacterial imbalances and that can kill your rabbit. It may take up to 4 weeks to introduce a new vegetable, hay or brand of pellets.
• Check out the USDA Nutritional Database to learn more about greens! http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/

WATER

• 24 hour access to fresh water is essential. The bowl or bottle should be scrubbed out with soap every other day to prevent mold and bacterial growth. We recommend that you offer both a water bowl and bottle to ensure adequate intake.

CAGE

• Size: A rabbit should be able to hop 3 times from 1 end of the cage to another.
• Floor: The floor of the cage should be solid, not wire (this may cause ulceration of the feet). If you have a cage with a wire floor, you can cover it with plastic or rubber. On the floor of the cage (over the plastic or rubber), a towel, a thick layer of hay or soft bedding should be placed. This will also help to protect your rabbit’s feet. Of course, you must keep the cage clean and dry and change the towels if they become soiled.
• Litter pan: We recommend placing a low sided triangular shaped litter pan in the corner of the cage. This should be filled with hay, shredded newspaper or shredded paper towels. You should NOT use wood shavings or kitty litter as this can be very irritating to the respiratory tract.

FORAGING

• It is important for rabbits to be able to dig and forage for their food like they would do out in the wild. This will help prevent boredom and digging at your floors and furniture.
• If you are using pellets to encourage foraging, only give them 1 teaspoon per day.
• You can use a cardboard box (remove the tape first) and place shredded paper, hay and a few pellets in the box to encourage digging.
• There are many foraging toys available for rabbits where you can hide their pellets. Make sure the toys are safe for rabbits and do not contain small pieces they can eat.

Living World Teach n’ Treat

http://www.rabbitawarenessweek.co.uk/behaviour/tips-for-enrichment/

http://bunnyapproved.com/product/trixie-treat-ball/

EXERCISE/GROOMING

• Rabbits should be allowed out of the cage to exercise every day. You must ensure that the play area is “rabbit-proof” – make sure there are no electrical wires or wooden furniture that they can chew.
• Rabbits should be brushed frequently when they are molting and daily if they are long haired rabbits.

HEALTH

• We advise spaying of ALL female rabbits because they are prone to cancers of the uterus and mammary glands. Male rabbits do not need to be castrated for health reasons, but castration may help decrease urine spaying and mounting.
• Check the teeth and the bottoms of the feet regularly. Contact your veterinarian if you notice that the feet are red, swollen, wet or painful. Contact your veterinarian if you notice that the teeth are crooked, too long, broken or discolored.
• Additionally, contact your veterinarian if you notice that your rabbit is drooling, has wetness around the mouth or front legs or is dropping food from its mouth.
• It is very important that rabbits are always eating and always defecating. The feces should be the same amount, color, shape (round) and size every day. It is an emergency if your rabbit stops eating, stops defecating, produces small feces or develops diarrhea. Please contact your veterinarian immediately. Rabbits should never go more than 6 hours without eating or defecating.
• Rabbits are very good at hiding signs of being sick. Therefore, take them to the vet quickly if your rabbit is acting abnormally at all - more sleepy, hiding, not playing, has droopy eyes, has watery eyes or seems to be too quite. They can become very sick very quickly so be vigilant!

COMMON PROBLEMS

• Dental disease (overgrown teeth) – can lead to drooling, not eating and swollen jaw
• GI stasis (not eating or defecating for more than 6 hours)
• Chronic nasal discharge/sneezing
• Discharge from the eyes – usually associated with dental disease
• Uterine cancer – causes bloody vaginal discharge or trouble breathing
• Mites, lice and fleasPododermatitis (sores on the foot pads)
• Urinary stones – causes bloody urine

Excellent rabbit information can be found on the internet at http://www.rabbit.org/

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.