Sugar gliders (Petaurus breviceps) are extremely cute little marsupials (which means the young are born very immature and grow in a pouch on the mother's abdomen). They have furry membranes that extend from their wrists to their ankles (the membrane is called a patagium) that allows them to glide through the air. In the wild they move from tree to tree by gliding. The sugar glider's body is about 5-6 inches long, and the tail adds another 6 inches. They weigh only 100-160 grams. They are native to Australia, Papua New Guinea and parts of Indonesia

Sugar gliders are very social and need lots of companionship. We recommend keeping more than one glider, ideally a same sex pair (or a female and neutered male) to prevent repeated breeding. Introducing adults is difficult though so it is best to raise them together from a young age.

We do not recommend keeping Sugar-gliders as pets as most owners cannot adequately provide for their Sugar-glider's needs and we see many unhappy stressed animals

Sugar Gliders Housing:

Sugar gliders are nocturnal (which means awake at night). They are very active and therefore need a large cage with height to allow them to climb and jump.

A minimum size for a pair of sugar gliders is 24 inches deep by 24 inches wide by 36 inches tall. Larger is always better; keeping in mind that height is most important.

Numerous platforms should be provided. The spacing of the wire should be no more

than 1/2 inch by 1 inch. Commercial cages do not often come in the dimensions preferred for sugar gliders, therefore owners often have to make their own.

A layer of paper  bedding material like 'Carefresh'  placed on the bottom  of the cage and in the nest box to help absorb waste, and should be cleaned out once or twice a week (more often if needed, depending on how many you have). We do not recommend using wood shavings.

The cage should be placed in an accessible spot in the home, but out of direct sunlight and in an area free from drafts. They do best a temperature slightly higher than room temperature, in the rage of 70-90 F.

Nest Boxes:

Your sugar gliders need a nest box, which are available in a number of materials. Plastic nest boxes are easy to clean. Wood nest boxes can't be cleaned properly and need to be replaced occasionally. A third option which many gliders like is a cloth pouch or a 'Snuggle Sack'. These can be fixed to the sides of the cage easily, and are washable, so you can have a spare and wash/replace them as necessary.

Placing the nest box against the ceiling of the cage will prevent the gliders from sitting on and defecating on top of the box.

Branches and Toys

Sugar Gliders like to climb and jump, you must provide lots of branches to allow them to exercise. Fresh branches are appreciated, but make sure they are free from pesticides and fertilizers, and are from non-toxic plants (fruit tree branches are best). Ropes and ladders can provide additional climbing opportunities. Wood and rope perches sold for parrot cages are ideal.

Wooden toys, such as those made for birds and rodents make good toys for sugar gliders. Toys placed high in the cage will be most appreciated as gliders like to spend their time high up in the cage. An exercise wheel, if introduced to young gliders will allow further opportunity for exercise. A large wheel with a solid surface is needed, so that legs and tails do not get caught.

Food Dishes:

Plastic bird dishes that hang on the side of the cage are best. They should be fairly large, but not so large that the gliders can climb into them and soil them. Water can be provided in a bottle, but if the gliders are not trained to a water bottle, provide another clip on dish for water until you are sure your gliders are taking water from the bottle consistently.

Diet:

Sugar gliders in the wild feed on eucalyptus  gum, sap,  insects, nectar,  and honeydew (an excretory product of nectar eating insects). They will also eat bird eggs, lizards, small birds and other small prey items. This diet is difficult to replicate correctly in captivity.

They are prone to metabolic bone disease resulting from an improper ratio of calcium to phosphorus in the diet, (any diet must be balanced or supplemented to maintain a calcium phosphorus ratio that is in the range of 1-2:1). Fats and refined sugars must also be avoided. If you decide to change a diet, you must do it gradually and make sure that the gliders do not get stressed by the change and are in fact adapting to the new diet.

We recommend the diet advice of exotic animal veterinarian Dr. Cathy Johnson-Delaney which is listed below. The suggested amounts are per sugar glider, per day, fed in the evening. The amount should be adjusted depending on activity, size, reproduction etc.

• 1 Tablespoon (15ml) of Leadbeater's Receipe Mix. ( See recipe below):
• 1 Tablespoon zoo quality insectivore diet (e.g. Mazuri Insectivore Diet), or insects. If using insects, variety is important (crickets, meal worms, wax worms, moths, spiders, etc), and the insects should be fed high quality food such as commercial cricket food, and dusted with a complete vitamin/mineral supplement.
• Treat: small amount of fruits, chopped together so the gliders can't just pick out their favorites. Only give the maximum of about 1 teaspoon per day for each glider.

Leadbeater's Recipe Mix: 150 ml Warm water 150 ml Honey

1 Shelled, boiled egg

25 grams high protein baby cereal

1 tsp vitamin/mineral supplement - we recommend VetArk Nutrobal.

Mix warm water and honey. Blend egg, then gradually add water/honey mixture. Blend in vitamin powder until smooth, and then blend in baby cereal. Keep refrigerated. You may use this mixture for 3 days, then dispose of any remaining mix and prepare a fresh batch.( or it may be frozen in icecube trays and defrosted daily)

Terms of Use:

This informational pamphlet is provided as a courtesy to our clients and is intended for educational purposes only. The information contained herein reflects general guidelines and should not be construed as definitive veterinary advice or a substitute for professional consultation with a qualified veterinarian. The specific needs of individual pets may vary, and it is crucial to consult with a veterinarian to ensure that your pet receives care tailored to its unique requirements.

While we endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information, veterinary medicine is a rapidly evolving field, and some information may become outdated or be superseded by new research findings. The clinic assumes no responsibility for errors, omissions, or variances in treatment outcomes based on the information provided in this pamphlet.

Furthermore, the references to products, medications, or treatments within this pamphlet do not imply endorsement by the clinic. Pet owners should verify the appropriateness of any product or treatment with their veterinarian.

In case of any signs of illness, discomfort, or behavioural changes in your pet, it is imperative to seek immediate veterinary attention. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical to the effective management of veterinary health issues.

For further information or to schedule an appointment, please contact our clinic directly. Our team is committed to providing the highest level of care for your pet.

This pamphlet is the property of Zodiac Pet & Exotic Hospital (“ZPEH”) and is not intended for commercial use or distribution without express permission from ZPEH.